Fix your Keurig

The Keurig is a cool machine, but it has a bit of a flaw. There are two needles that pierce the K-cup, one at the top and one at the bottom. Since the needle at the bottom is piercing plastic and the needle at the top is piercing foil, the needle at the top will pierce first. This wouldn’t be a big deal but the top needle is hollow in the middle and connected to the water supply. When you press down to puncture the K-cup you pressurize the cup so that when it does pierce the foil coffee from the cup is pushed up into the needle. Over time the coffee builds up in the tube behind the needle until one day all those coffee bits conspire together to clog the needle and it won’t brew. Mine only took a little over a month to do this.

Keurig K-cup

It’s not too hard to fix. You have to get some of the plastic covers off of your Keurig though. You will need a philips screwdriver and a T15 Torx driver. All of the Keurigs are a bit different on the outside, but they all appear to have the same mechanism for handling the K-cup. So your covers might be different but the internals are probably the same. Take the covers off so you can get to the internal plumbing. 

Remove the upper needle assemblyNow that the covers are out of the way, remove the two screws that hold the top needle assembly in place, along with the two screws holding down the clamp for the silicone tubing that connects the needle to the check valve. Next work the silicone tubing off of the check valve. The needle assembly should come out now. You don’t need to do anything special here, just run the needle under the faucet and watch the coffee pour out. Now put it back together. Brew some coffee and go back to your day.

Of course, you do this at your own risk and I take no responsibility if you break your Keurig. If you aren’t comfortable taking apart your Keurig, return it for replacement or repair. Or buy a Tassimo which is a better machine anyway.

This only took me about twenty minutes to figure out so it wouldn’t be too big of a deal to have to do this every couple months. However, I’m guessing that closing the lid slowly would reduce the amount of coffee making it’s way into the water line. If the pressure is allowed to escape before the needle is fully inserted into the cup it might help. [edit: Thanks to Lindsay, who identified the best solution: manually press down on the k-cup to puncture the bottom before closing the lid. I’ve also guessed more recently that this might only be a problem for those of us living at high altitude, since most packaging is positively pressurized by the time it gets here.]

Tuesday, May 3rd, 2011 Uncategorized

20 Comments to Fix your Keurig

  • Lindsay says:

    Please don’t do this how about just pushing down on the k cup first to puncture the bottom hole and then closing the top.

  • Patrick Thng says:

    I brought my Keuring B66 (Ultimate) from the US to Singapore & used a step down transformer (220v to 110v)to be used in Singapore. Machine initially lit on with the menu and then went off but with slight whirring sound. Switch on & off the power supply and menu switch not working but slight whirring sound.
    What’s your advice ? Tks

  • imsolidstate says:

    Lindsay: that is probably the best way. However, it doesn’t change the fact that it should have been designed to do that in the first place.

  • imsolidstate says:

    Patrick: my best guess is that the Keurig is sensitive to the lower line frequency in Singapore, because your step-down transformer will be supplying 110VAC @50Hz instead of 60Hz.

  • James says:

    Another factor to consider is that K-cups are pressurized with nitrogen to keep the coffee fresher. Higher altitude means even higher differential pressure in the cup than seen at lower elevations. Also, closing the mechanism presses on the cup top which sometimes ruptures a seam, sending coffee bits into the mechanism, causing clogs and making a mess. The best bet is to always press the cup down to puncture the cup bottom and eliminate the pressure. It’s a good system that works well when you know to do this. Enjoy!

  • Bryon says:

    My Keurig only brews half of what it is suppose to. I can also here water flowing back into the reservoir when it is brewing. I have de-scaled it twice and still doesn’t work properly. What is next?

  • Bryon says:

    My Keurig only brews half of what it is suppose to. I can also hear water flowing back into the reservoir when it is brewing. I have de-scaled it twice and still doesn’t work properly. What is next?

  • June Collins says:

    Bryon, did you try brewing without the K cup in it? If so, did it put out the appropriate amount of water? If it did, then the problem is probably the bottom puncturing pin not piercing the k cup properly. I fixed mine when I found that filter material was wrapped around the pin that is supposed to puncture the bottom. (I guess the K cups have filter liners maybe?)I pushed the K cup holder up out of the machine so that I could more easily put my fingers down around the pin and carefully cleaned it off. Mine is now brewing perfectly.

  • Sharon Christensen says:

    The Keurig is making too big of hole in the top. It’s twice the size it use to be. Coffee not as good. Can this be fixed?
    Thanks

  • Ronald Bowman says:

    People having extreme trouble with clogging (less-than-full-cups or no flow) probably live at well above sea-level elevations — much of the U.S., that is. While such things as fineness of grind are involved, the main issue is “simply” pressurized K-cups, which are VERY likely at altitudes well above sea level. My experience and testing prove this beyond reasonable doubt. Here is my saga, first posted elsewhere:

    All these reports of unclogging Keurig K-cup brewers by slapping them are amusing – but also a bit creepy. Do you enjoy beating up your non-functional brewers? I can understand that – it is highly irritating to have the expensive machines fail; often just when you need a jolt to start your day. But, surely, it is better to prevent these clogs than to have to frequently resort to violent maneuvers to unclog the machine’s plumbing.

    I’ve written several posts that clearly reveal how most clogs occur. And, it is easy to prevent them – most of them, at the very least. Rehash: I bought my Mr. Coffee version of the Keurig machine about 3 months ago – along with a variety of K-cups. It promptly failed – again and again, as I repeatedly and thoroughly cleaned the upper and lower needles. Typically, the machine would clog within no more than a few brews – incredible! I was going to return it and foist off my supply of K-cups on anyone who would take them. But, I was intrigued about why my experience was so extreme. Was it just my specific machine? Should I even try another one? Being a retired scientist, I take such questions as a challenge. There must be some reason/reasons for my outstandingly bad experience. And, there were two hints as to why I was having trouble: Keurig does not recommend use above 6000 ft elevations; and my K-cups all showed tightly-bulged lids! My cups were evidently all filled and sealed at low elevations (atmospheric pressure at sea level is roughly 15 pounds per square inch, psi) while I live at 7000 ft, where atmospheric pressure is about 12 psi – so, 3 PSI excess pressure is what I can expect inside my K-cups! (at least most of them – a few seem to have lost pressure, over time). And, much of the U.S. is above 2000 ft, meaning that most of us can expect very substantially pressurized K-cups. So what? You might ask. Well, pressures of 1 psi and above are NOT small. Three psi leads to about 5 pounds total outward force on the 1.5 square-inch lid! (A bowling ball weighs about 10 pounds.) For other comparisons, see
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orders_of_magnitude_(pressure)
    This reference shows a maximum pressure from a normal person’s lungs is about 1.4 psi (a few people can manage twice that). This is the “stalled” (closed-lips) pressure – which is much more than the moving-air (pursed lips) pressures attainable. Do you doubt that you can strongly blow dry, ground coffee vigorously around with pursed lips? — or by an opened party-balloon neck? (Party balloons usually have less than 1 psi pressure, above atmospheric). You can definitely “blast” these particles around! – with substantially less pressure than K-cups often have inside them! And, for an instant (long enough!), that is what happens when you close the “clamshell” and pierce a typical K-cup – coffee is puffed out of the cup – into the piercing needle and/or immediate surrounds. (As pointed out by another person here, Rob, the lower needle does not pass through the filter inside the cup – it enters to the side, instead. Look at a spent cup – the lower needle hole is at the outer part of the cup — and taking some spent cups apart showed the filters had not been pierced! So it is the upper needle that is mainly the source of escaped coffee powder). To make matters worse, the Keurig machines withdraw excess hot liquid — and, pretty surely, some of the escaped particles — back into the machine as part of the final phase of the brewing cycle.

    You might think the above is merely theory, but here is some experimental proof. And, BTW, Keurig actually suggests piercing the K-cups before using them! This is easily done by pushing (using your thumbs on opposing sides of the cup) down onto the lower needle before closing the “clamshell”. Since the lower needle passes outside of the filter, few if any coffee particles will escape in the “puff” of gas that de-pressurizes the cup. Then, when the upper needle is lowered to puncture the lid, not so many coffee particles will escape (there is a soft gasket that seals the upper needle to the K-cup lid as the needle finishes its penetration). Proof of technique: when I started using it, my very severe clogging problems CEASED immediately and have not returned during more than 200 brews (not even a half-dozen brews were possible before using the puncture-first technique – even 1 or 2 brews were sometimes enough to achieve a clog)!

    Additional input: It makes sense that some K-cups will have courser particles than others – making clogging more likely. I opened a few K-cup brands and examined the coffee particles. I spread out the particles and looked at them with a magnifier – also felt them between pinched fingers – and also observed how much passed through a fine-screen mesh. Here is what I found: (1 is coursest grind, 3 is finest)

    Kirkland (Costco) Pacific Extra Bold — 1
    Green Mountain “Half-Caff – 1
    Newman’s Own Bold – 2
    Kroger’s 100% Columbian – 2
    Simple Truth Organic Columbian (a premium Kroger brand) (medium roast) – 3

    My initial, severe clogging problems were with the Kirkland and Green Mountain varieties, but now these also have not given me ANY problems with clogging, despite my 7000 ft elevation. In passing, I like the Simple Truth brand best! – not “bold” (actually means “burnt”!) just very fragrant and flavorful. I suspect the finer grind might allow better extraction of the flavorful oils, given the quick-brew design of the Keurig machines.

    However, if you like to spank your Keurig, go right ahead and let it get clogged. I’m a liberal and would not like to deny you any kinky pleasure you desire. 

  • Daniel says:

    Patrick’s problem may be that he used the wrong type of voltage converter. A proper 240-120 buck transformer will be about the size of a toaster and very heavy, the small ones that have a wattage switch aren’t a transformer at all when set on high, they are basically a big light dimmer.

    Doubling the voltage gives you 4x the watts from a fixed resistance device, so those small converters simply chop up the 240v sine wave so that it is only put out effectively 1/4th of the time. This works great with a simple heating element like a hair dryer or coffee pot but is murder for anything electronic, Keurig included, because the peak voltage is still more than the ~160-170v of a 120v RMS sine wave. Peak is 1.414x RMS for a pure sine wave. The higher peak voltage fries stuff.

  • Carole A says:

    My needle punch assembly has cracked and broken off on the top. Is there somewhere I can send my keurig to be repaired. I’m having trouble finding a parts manual an/or parts sales for my keurig. I would try to repair it myself if I could order the replacement part.

  • Claire L says:

    Hi! I have a 110v Keurig & I live overseas in Samoa, I have used it for almost a year now with a transformer & it has worked great. The transformer has a plug on the front for the “out put” power so I just always plug it into the 110v output.

    But this morning I plugged it into the 220v plug!! It did not make any noise, but there was a rubber burning smell & then it powered off.

    It is not working now at all, do you have any suggestions?

    Thank You!

  • Helen says:

    After reading some of the above postings, I’m beginning to believe that slow output is due to the K-Cup and not necessarily the Keurig. Despite regular cleaning our Keurig clearly lacks pressure. I have just spent nearly four hours pumping through reservoirs full. Pressure was great. Immediately I inserted a Timothy’s K-Cup and was disappointed to see that my efforts had not been rewarded – back to very, very slow. I tried pressing down the cup with thumbs on either side as one poster recommended, This improved the speed but only briefly. Is the manufacturer not looking into this apparent problem with the k-CUPS ?

  • john says:

    my k40 keurig will not turn on anymore.
    took the power transformer off and tested but it s working fine.
    what else can cause the keurig not to turn on any more?

    thanks

  • Steve says:

    Need lower check valve. Where can I find parts?

  • Nunyabiz1 says:

    Apparently if this is a problem then the new KCups that are biodegradable and do not even have a plastic bottom to pierce is the answer to all your problems.
    its just a filter bag hanging down from the plastic ring.

  • Bill Van says:

    I am also in need of a lower 90 degree check valve . The plastic on mine has a crack that leaks when water hot . Is there any place where I can purchase one of these . I have seen straight through ones but plumbing is too confined so need one that has outlet 90 degrees to the supply. Can send pictures if needed .

  • Doug Winfree says:

    My Keurig 2.0 K425 Plus has a rubber bushing (about 1/4” long) that fits over the bottom needle/puncture post. The bushing has a large collar on one end and a small collar on the other. Does it matter how you place this bushing on the post, large collar on top or bottom?

  • Jim says:

    The inlet screen on my Keurig was covered with some sort of clear lube, like o-ring grease. No amount of cleaning would clear it and there is no apparent way to remove the screen for cleaning. I stabbed a hole in the screen with a knife and it now fills the cup as it should.

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